Greenwashing in the Fashion Industry: I'm Not Buying it
By Bella Hillyer
Countless articles of clothing are now labeled as “green,” “eco-friendly,” “sustainably sourced,” “pure,” and my personal favorite, “natural.” The packaging of this apparel might even include a flashy green leaf or be colored with an earthy tone. But what do all of these words and symbols actually mean, with the absence of transparency about supply chains, manufacturing, and disposal?
Greenwashing rapidly emerged as a strategic marketing scam attempting to convince the growing population of eco-conscious consumers to purchase their products on the basis of them being sustainable. In reality, if these fashion companies are not certified by third parties, there may be limited truth to the aforementioned claims to consumers that they are in fact sustainable. So, I decided to do some digging to see if I could identify greenwashing buzzwords in the Fashion industry without any evidence to support it.
In 2019, H&M released its “Conscious” collection, claiming that the articles included in the line were constructed from organic cotton and recycled polyester. Also, customers making purchases from the Conscious Collection are rewarded with 15% any H&M item, further promoting consumption of textiles.
With the absence of regulation requiring certain actions in order to use the words “organic” or “recycled” in fashion, there is no way to tell if a t-shirt is 5% or 95% organic or recycled. There are zero facts or figures to confirm H&M’s claims on their website, which makes it evident that their use of the words are for the sole purpose of triggering consumers to purchase their “conscious” collection in order for them to feel they are making a good decision for the environment. Furthermore, even if a fabric is organic cotton, cotton is one of the most water and pesticide dependent crops. One kilogram of cotton requires twenty thousand litres of water, and cotton production is responsible for a third of all pesticide use in the United States. I know what you’re thinking: H&M’s Conscious Colletion’s cotton is organic, which means no pesticides. However, unlike the food industry, there are no certifications mandated for the word’s use in fashion. Companies can label textiles as organic even if pesticides were used in its production.
If these sustainability buzzwords continue to be repeated across an array of companies in the fashion industry with no evidence to back it up, it loses credibility. According to Corey Spencer, founder of completely transparent Swedish fashion label Amendi, the overuse of “green,” “organic,” and “sustainable” in clothing causes companies who create products that are actually made from ethically sourced, natural materials suffer. In a University of Washington panel discussion Spencer stated, “It is important for a small brand like ours, the idea that when we say something because we’re trying to appeal to a certain demographic who cares, that our language can be taken seriously in the marketplace.” If another brand with more power can say they are also sustainable with no regulatory requirements, it becomes problematic for small, sustainable fashion labels because the word loses its meaning. Taking advantage of green marketing language creates an unfair playing field for the fashion industry.
In a market with no regulation, transparency is key for fashion companies to claim that they are sustainable. Take a look at brands such as Pangaia, Reformation, and Allbirds:
Pangaia lists each fiber used in its textiles with information about its environmental impact. Reformation releases a “sustainability report” each year. The company rates itself on different aspects of its derivation, production, and disposal of materials. It informs consumers on where they excel and where improvement is necessary. Allbirds includes a map on its website showcasing where its products are made. It is important for ecologically conscious consumers to search for transparency in fashion brands to ensure sustainability claims are honest and support companies actually making an effort to help the environment. If a brand uses sustainability buzzwords but lacks evidence about where their products come from and what they are constructed from, they are likely not sustainable.